Lazy Bouillabaisse

This is a quick, weekday night take on the Mediterranean tomato-based fish stews. I started with Kate Rentschler’s Bouillabaisse from Cook’s Illustrated September 2001, then streamlined per Roberta Donna’s Zuppa di Pesce, memories of San Francisco Cioppino, and now improvise using the flavor profiles I’m looking for -- and tasting all the time. The texture’s thinner than a stew but thicker than a soup. The flavors I really enjoy here are saffron, orange, and anise.

We can tomatoes from the farmers market at the end of the season, but store-bought canned tomatoes are fine, too. You want the skins removed. All proportions are approximate, and use fish that’s fresh. You want some firm fish and some flakey fish for interesting texture; some shellfish is fine too.

Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as a starter

¼ tsp Saffron threads

3 Tbs Pernod, Absinthe or other anise liquor

¼ Cup Olive Oil

1 clove Garlic, minced

1 quart Tomatoes, skinned (we can our own, canned chopped are fine)

to taste Chili pepper flakes

to taste Salt

1 tsp Orange Zest (from about ½ an orange)

¼ pound Firm fish, cut into spoon-friendly chunks

¼ pound Flakey fish, cut into chunks

Crumble the Saffron threads into a cup with the Pernod and let flavors dissolve.

In skillet, cook Garlic until soft.

Add Tomatoes and their juice, and crush with a potato masher until chunky but small enough to eat gracefully from a spoon.

Bring it to a good boil, you want to emulsify the oil and tomato mixture to give it body.

Add Chili flakes and Salt.

Taste for body and add more oil if it feels thin and without luxury.

Turn down heat and add Orange Zest, Saffron and Pernod.

Cook gently to marry flavors and taste, adjusting seasonings and oil.

Add the fish, starting with the firmest, and simmer until just barely cooked.

Adjust seasonings once more.

Serve in pre-warmed bowls.

Extra credit if you top with a crouton and rouille.