2015-06-10

Black Risotto with Smoked Squid

I used to struggle with risotto, and even took a class at L'Academie de Cuisine where I learned it's really about the texture. Don't worry about the exact measurements and time: get the "bite" and creaminess right; taste periodically as it's cooking so you know what to look for. It's not a hard or time-consuming dish, probably 30 to 45 minutes start to finish; this is a weeknight meal.

Using the proper rice is critical, but I've got no strong preference between Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano. But it's gotta be one of those, that absorb the flavorful stock, retain a bite in the center, and release enough starch to develop a creaminess. This rice is available at Italian markets, but seems common in basic supermarkets these days, usually in rectangular boxes with the rice vacuum-sealed in thick plastic. It's easy to find, so don't bother with regular medium grain rice, jasmine, sticky, or basmati; save the bomba for paella.

For two people, I use 1 cup of rice and 2 cups of stock; I always end up adding more stock (or water) after I've used the stock, slowing adding until the balance between toothsomeness and creaminess is right. Depending on the risotto, you can use any stock you like: we always have fish, chicken, duck, and beef stock in the freezer; for this, fish was the obvious choice. If your stock is really rich (gelatinous at room temperature), dilute with water to avoid it developing a stickiness as it concentrates. 

I then add a bit more water before serving -- not because I want a more "al onda" (wavy, loose) texture, but because I find the risotto firms up after plating and I don't want it too firm on the plate.

In this serving, I used some squid ink we brought back from Spain years ago.  I heat the broth in one pot, adding the ink, and hold it at just below a simmer so it doesn't have to heat when added to the rice pan.


We recently cold-smoked some squid, so we used the tentacles for this dish. The aroma intrigued the nose long before the dish hit the table. Definitely worth repeating.

I start by sauteeing shallots with olive oil, then when starting to soften, add minced garlic and saute a bit more. 


Then add the rice and saute a bit: I look for a bit of translucence just like when I make paella. 




Then add the inked fish stock, maybe a half cup at a time and stir well. Contrary to myth, you don't have to stir continuously, or always in a clockwise direction (or was it counterclockwise?), or even use a wooden spoon handed down by your grandmother. Give the rice time to absorb most of the stock: it's a balance between absorption and concentration from evaporation. Add more stock when there's not much loose liquid remaining in the rice pan. In the picture below, we're probably about 2/3rds the way through --- you can see the inky broth is starting to get a glossy thickness in the middle right.


I then add the uncooked, cold-smoked squid tentacles, stirring them through to cook for just a few minutes. I ended up adjusting the thickness by adding a bit more hot water, just until it was a bit looser than I'd want it on the plate. Make sure to taste and adjust for salt, it's your last chance.


At the end, I added a few red peppers from the garden for color, plated and garnished with parsley and a gratuitous zucchini blossom we pulled off our plant.

In the top photo, it's hard to distinguish the squid and red peppers -- they got colored by the inky broth. Next time, I'd probably poach the squid briefly in the uninked stock to retain their color, and reserve the red peppers for garnish to preserve their brick-red color contrast. 

You don't have to use exotic ingredients: we frequently do a simple blond risotto with chicken stock and add some peas at the end.  A basic fish broth risotto is elegant topped with three seared scallops each. You can stir in some pesto at the end, or some grated parmesan right before serving, if it works with your other flavors. Just ensure your rice retains a bit of a bite in the center and you've developed creaminess by slow additions of the stock. 






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