2023-05-14

Gâteau Basque #2

I made Gâteau Basque once before with an unusual technique that required piping the base and top in a spiral; it was a nuisance but I see Spanish Sabores does it the same way. This time, I want to avoid that fuss and make a more standard pastry top and bottom, like NY Times (paywall) and Serious Eats do; like Serious Eats, I'll fill with both jam and pastry cream; I've got an excess of marmalade so I'll use that instead of traditional black cherry. Here in Barcelona, I don't have my old stand mixer, so I'll make the pastry by hand, as shown in this traditional preparation video which I found on the Fête du Gâteau Basque official site, and also this video with clear quantities and technique. I'm starting from the Serious Eats recipe, including their Pastry Cream.

When I made this, I let the Pastry butter warm up, and was not able to get the sandy texture -- it congealed. But I chilled it and reworked a bit later, and it still turned out well.  My cake pan has a 20 cm (8 inch) interior with 4 cm steep sides, and 24 cm across at the top. The quantities of Pastry and fillings below worked well for this. The Almond "flour" is actually very finely ground almonds, not as fine as wheat flour. 

Pastry

250 g      Flour
 50 g      Almond "Flour"
150 g      Sugar
  4 g      Baking Powder [I had only 3.2g]
pinch      Salt
210 g      Butter, unsalted, cold, cut into 1cm cubes
  1 large  Egg (50g [mine was 59 g]), cool

In a large bowl, whisk Flour, Almond Flour, Baking Powder, Salt, and Sugar.
Mix in half the cubed Butter, and rub the butter into the flour; add the rest of the Butter, and continue rubbing in to get a sandy texture; see the video for clear technique.
Add 1 Egg, and again mix by hand, then knead into a smooth ball; it should be soft and sticky.
Divide in two portions, one slightly larger than the other for the bottom; shape into flat disks, wrap each in plastic wrap, and refrigerate 3 hours or overnight.

Pastry Cream

455 g      Whole Milk
           Orange Zest from one Orange (microplane)
115 g      Sugar
 30 g      Cornstarch
pinch      Salt
  4        Egg Yolks (70g)
 30 g      Butter, unsalted, cold, cut into 1cm cubes
2.5 ml     Vanilla Extract (1/2 tsp)

Infuse Orange Zest in Milk by combining in a pot, bring to bare simmer, then cover and steep for 30 minutes. Because this is hot, you'll need to temper the egg mixture.
Make an ice bath to chill the Pastry Cream and set aside.
In heatproof bowl, whisk the Sugar, Cornstarch, Salt; whisk in Egg Yolks until smooth, pale yellow, and fluffy -- about 1 minute.
My Infused Milk threatened to separate so I blitzed with a stick blender.
Slowly whisk the warm Infused Milk into the Egg mixture to temper it.
Return to sauce pan, cook over medium heat while whisking continuously until it begins to thicken (at 80C), about 5 minutes. 
Continue whisking, pausing every few seconds to check for bubbles; when they appear, set a timer and whisk continuously for 1 minute; this neutralizes starch-dissolving egg proteins.
Off heat, whisk in butter until melted and thoroughly combined.
Strain through fine sieve into heat proof bowl; I skipped this as I want the fine zest in my filling.
Put film directly on surface to prevent skinning, and transfer to an ice bath  to chill 30 minutes, then refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours or overnight.
Whisk in the Almond (Vanilla) Extract.

Whisking eggs into sugar

Assembly, Baking

200 g      Marmalade, room temperate to ease spreading
  1 large  Egg (50g) for wash
 15 ml     Milk for wash

Preheat oven to 180C (350F).
Grease 20 cm (8 inch) cake pan with butter and hold in refrigerator.
Whisk the Pastry Cream with an electric whisk, egg beaters, or regular whisk to fluff it up.
Remove dough disks from fridge; you'll need to let them warm up for 15-30 minutes so you can roll out the dough.
Spread film or parchment on a counter, then place the larger dough disk it, and cover with film or parchment; roll it out to 28 cm -- enough to cover bottom and sides of cake pan. 
Store covered in film/parchment in fridge while you work on the next one.
Repeat rolling out the smaller disk for the top, rolling to 24 cm between film/parchment; store in fridge.



Remove the larger disk and transfer to greased cake pan, gently pressing into corners, and running it up the sides.
Add Marmalade and smooth out.
Add Pastry Cream and spread evenly on top of the jam.



Remove smaller disk from fridge and transfer to cake pan to cover the filling.
My filling did not come up to the top of the pan, so I pressed the edges of the top to the bottom where it ran up the sides, then folded it over to the center to seal.
Whisk 1 Egg with the 15 ml Milk and brush top.
Use tines of fork to create a traditional diagonal crosshatch pattern.
Use a knife to cut a few small air vents along the crosshatch lines.


Bake 45 minutes at 180C (350F) until cake is puffed and deep golden brown
Let cool completely, about 2 hours.
Loosen edges with a knife, invert, then invert again onto serving platter.


Slice and serve.

Marmalade on bottom, left side; lots of pastry cream on top, crumbly cake-y top

Next Time...

I'll use cold butter for the pastry, as I've corrected in the instructions above.

The bottom is a little wet; can I warm up the jam and spread it on top of the pastry cream?

No comments:

Post a Comment