2015-07-27

Daily Dinner #2

Shannon challenged us to post our regular, day-to-day dinners. We'll try and do them in weekly batches. 

This week was a bit unusual as we had colleagues staying with us to work on a big software project, so we went out more than we normally would. 


2015-07-19 Sunday

We brined an Amish chicken from the market in a 3% solution (e.g., 1 Liter water to 30 g kosher salt) overnight. The brine keeps it moist, seasons it, and the breast bones keep the heat from drying out the meat. We cut out the spine so we can "spatchcock" it, allowing us to lay it flat over the coals. We also remove the wing tips for stock, and reserve the wings and drummettes to make Buffalo style chicken wings sometime in the future. 

We took the brined chicken out the next day, drained it, then let it sit in the fridge to dry out the skin a bit. I painted it with olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic powder, and paprika, and repeated this once on the fire. 


Cook it skin side up, breast bones down, until done all the way through. The dark meat gets a bit closer to the heat, the white meat is well protected, so they get done to the right temperatures about the same time; you want the dark meat cooked to a higher temperature than the white meat. When cooked through, I turned it upside down to crisp up the skin a bit.  In the background, we have some garden cherry tomatoes heating through.


Once off the grill, we divide the chicken up into the constituent pieces: separate the legs from the breasts and divide into drumstick and thigh; cut the breast down the center, then divide into front and back portions. 

We served the chicken on a bed of arugula, radicchio, sorrel and oak leaf lettuce that's coming into its own in the garden. 



Irene made a potato salad from new potatoes we picked up at the farmers market, dressed with mayonnaise liberated from various lunch counters, capers, horseradish, vinegar, oil, chives, spring onions, and mint from the garden.



This turned out very well, the brine allowed us some leeway in our cooking, but kept it moist and flavorful. I couldn't get as much crunch as I'd like in the skin, I think I let the coals die down too much. 


The wine was from Chateau Costco, a Marlborough sauvignon blanc that was quite decent for the price. The blue glasses have fizzy water we make, adding a bit of epsom salts to our tap water to get a mineral profile similar to that of Apollinaris, then force carbonate with gear I used to use for homebrewing.


2015-07-20 Monday

Irene was cooking crawfish and grits so Chris decided to do a New Orleans cocktail, the classic Sazerac. We went old school, with brandy instead of the modern rye, and used pre-post-prohibition Absinthe we brought from Spain (the real spirit containing wormwood was illegal in most countries, including the U.S. at the time, the modern stuff eschews wormwood), and Peychaud's bitters from New Orleans, muddled with a sugar cube.  It has the class of a Manhattan but a bit sweeter, with the distinctive Absinthe aroma. A great cocktail! 


Sauté the onions and garlic with thyme, add garden tomatillos, cook down to release a bit of liquid.




Then add crayfish/crawdads/mudbugs and cook through. Season with some vinegar-based hot sauce to taste. 

We served it with leftover grits, plumped with the corn we got from the farmers market this weekend.
I get a kick out of a nicely laid-out table, including old-school napkin presentation. 


2015-07-21 Tuesday

Hot days call for a Caipirinha, the Brazilian cocktail featuring Cachaça; I prefer the assertiveness of Pitu brand over the dainty smooth ones. We're a bit heavy-handed and use 3 ounces Cachaça, two tablespoons of Sugar, and one lime per person.  



Muddle limes with sugar to extract flavor from the skins, add the booze, shake on ice, strain, serve. 
We made some chorizo from pork loin we'd cold smoked. The smell and taste were great but the lean meat didn't have quite the right texture. We cooked 'em up with new potatoes, leveraging the fat that came off the sausages.



We served these with roma beans from the garden, steamed then sautéed with a bit of the fat left in the skillet.


2015-07-22 Wednesday

We don't go to Cowboy Cafe every Wednesday for 50-cent wings, but we've got geeks over to sprint on a big software project, so beer and wings seemed like just the right thing for a late dinner. These are the Edgar-style wings, with a great crusty exterior.
 Don't forget to eat your vegetables.

2015-07-24 Thursday

Irene picked up some quality ribeye steaks from Costco while the geeks toiled in the basement. While we were prepping dinner, I made a variation on a Manhattan with Temtation bourbon, Vya Vermouth (flavorful, full-bodied, from California), and a homemade maraschino-style cherry. 

Irene built a big fire (hardwood charcoal, of course). We dropped the grates as low as we could to get an intense sear, and when they were nearly done, moved them well off the heat to rest before cutting them up.
We also grilled up some garden zucchini and bush beans, mushrooms, and grilled some of my bread.
Left to right, Charles, Earl, Reed, and Irene, finally getting dinner at 10pm.

2015-07-24 Friday

The gang's still here, hacking code til late, so we ran out to the Lebanese Tavern. It was a really pleasant night so we were able to sit outside.  We started with some interesting cocktails (Beirut Mule, with Arak instead of Vodka), with some freshly made and delicious pita.  Entres were rare lamb, well roasted lamb, and roasted chicken. I stupidly forgot to take pictures, the rare lamb was gorgeous. Roasted lamb, from a Yelp posting:


We then stayed up way too late drinking through a bunch nice booze: Temptation bourbon and Redemption rye, smooth Jura and smoky Bowmore single malt whisky.

2015-07-25 Saturday

We continued to work straight through dinner time, then went out to Janet's rooftop party on Capitol Hill. Irene made phyllo pastry stuffed with arugula pesto -- crunchy and rich from the butter and filling. Below, they're chilling before baking.


It was a perfect night, with killer views. The U.S. Capitol's undergoing renovation and the scaffolding makes it look pixelated, like it's built from legos. 




2015-07-19

Brandied Cherries

A number of cocktail books and websites talk about making your own brandied or maraschino-style cherries. These aren't the clown-nose ones you put on kids' ice cream; I want something more like the real deal from Luxardo which are delightful but pricey.  I made a couple batches from last summer's farmers market cherries including Bing, Rainer and sour cherries. It took a while for the rough edge of the brandy to mellow but they were quite nice. They didn't have any sugar so weren't sweet and syrupy like the Luxardo, so this time I'm going to try adding sugar.


I brine them first in hopes of extracting excess water; it's been a very wet summer here and the sour cherries I got from the market seem a bit flaccid. Any water I can remove should be replaced by the flavored brandy I marinade them in.

It's not critical what spices you use: in addition to normal kitchen spices, I have a few exotics from making bitter amaro drinks.  I'll let this one age, taste, then adjust the next batch based on how this turns out.

1 L Water
100 g Kosher Salt
1 Kg pitted sour Cherries, pits reserved
300 ml Brandy (I used some spiced but unsugared from previous year)
500 g Sugar
2 piece Star Anise
1 stick Cinnamon, cracked in half
10 whole Cloves
10 berries Allspice
2 chunks dried Bitter Orange peel
2 Tbs dried Hibiscus Flower
600 ml Brandy (I used St. Remy VSOP, very affordable)

Make a 10% salt brine (for 1L water, that's 100 grams salt) and cool.

Pit the Cherries, retaining the pits; you should have 1Kg Cherries. Cover with the cooled brine and refrigerate overnight. 

Pitted cherries in 10% brine


Rinse the brine off the cherries and put in jars with lids.

Bake the pits at a low temperature to dry them out so you can crack them. Crack inside a ziptop bag with a hammer or something hard to expose the pits, which have an almond-like flavor. But they also have cyanide in them, so bake at 350F for 20 minutes to neutralize it.

Cherry pits, baked dry to allow cracking

Cracked cherry pits to expose the interior for flavor
We had some leftover flavored brandy from the last batch, so we used this instead of fresh brandy. Heat the 300 ml Brandy and Sugar as low as you can to start dissolving the sugar: you don't want to boil off the alcohol. Add the spices and let steep for an hour or so. Let cool.

Add the 500 ml Brandy to the cooled brandy syrup, then pour over the cherries in the jar, including the spices and pits to infuse the syrup with flavor as the cherries develop.  If the syrup doesn't cover the Cherries, add more Brandy. If you don't like the sticks and stems in the liquid, you can strain them out but wrap them in cheesecloth so to flavor the syrup.

Close the jars of cherries in syrup and Place in large jar and cover with the solution. Close and refrigerate for at least a month. 
Taste periodically, the raw Brandy taste should dissipate.

Daily Dinner #1

Our friend Shannon challenged us to post pictures of a month's of our everyday dinners, not the fancy-pants stuff we sometimes do to challenge ourselves. Instead of a post-per-day, we'll batch them up into weekly collections, or something like it. Here's the first week's daily dinners.


2015-07-12 Sunday

Bavette steak from the excellent Westover Market butcher. We marinaded it in a paste of rosemary and garlic (from the garden), olive oil and shallot overnight, then wiped off the paste and cooked it very hot about a half inch from the coals. We finished the meal with garden courgette (zucchini) and homemade bread, both grilled on the BBQ. Sorry, no pictures of the finished product -- crusty and charred on the outside, pink and juicy in the center.



We had a couple Aviation cocktails while the food cooked: gin, lemon juice, luxardo liqueur, then layered crème de violette and a homemade maraschino cherry.


2015-07-13 Monday

Irene's egg pasta with a sauce she built over a couple days. She started with shallots, our garden tomatoes, garlic, thyme, oregano and cooked it down. Then for service, she added rough chopped fresh raw tomatoes and basil, again from the garden.


2015-07-14 Tuesday

Our roma beans from the garden.


We're overloaded with courgette (zucchini) so irene made a flan in a phyllo crust. Grated, salted and drained courgette, summer savory, garlic, shallot, goat cheese, saffron and eggs.





2015-07-15 Wednesday

I've been working too much and crave the chicken wings they make up the street at Cowboy Cafe. Wednesday is 50-cent wing night, a good deal. Because they move so many, they arrive at the table hot, juicy inside, and crunchy outside; it's not quite upstate NY wings, but they're very very good. To be clear, I should say the "Edgar Style" wings the Cowboy serves are the best: I believe they're dry-rubbed and finished on an open grill.

2015-07-16 Thursday

Home cold-smoked salmon, fresh black eyed peas, and even more giant courgette. When the peas were heated through I tossed in some of our cherry tomatoes and tomatillos, and a bit of cucumber for texture and color.




 2015-07-17 Friday

While we were cooking, I whipped up a variation on a Manhattan cocktail. I used smoky Bowmore single malt whisky and Cocchi Americano, then added a homemade maraschino cherry and a bit of its juice. We liked the deep smokiness rounded out by the Cocchi.

We had cold-smoked some pork loin so grilled it up in bitchin' hot cast iron, along with some grits and steamed filet beans (in the foil) from the garden. 

I finished the beans on the cast iron.




The grits were from a bag we brought back from Edisto GA and had the most intense corn-y taste I've had. Irene made it with water rather than dairy, but threw in some stinky Brie we'd had lurking in the fridge. The searing on cast iron gave the cakes a satisfying crust.



To finish the dinner we served cider that we fermented from juice we got at the farmers market. It had a pleasant funk in the nose and a zing of real apples. The cider's not hard to make: toss in some yeast and let it ferment out, then bottle with a bit of simple syrup to carbonate. 


2015-07-18 Saturday

Cold-smoked trout sauteed in butter and olive oil, stuffed with a couple lemon slices.


First of the season corn from the farmers market. I like cooking it in the husk either on the BBQ or in the microwave oven (2 minutes/ear), then finishing in a bit of fat in a skillet with a splash of lemon or lime juice. 

Trout filet with a bit of arugula pesto, and the pan-finished corn. We had a cucumber salad on the side.


We are overloaded with arugula so we pull big bowls from the garden, strip off the leaves, wash well, then whiz up with nuts (pine, walnuts, almonds, even peanuts), a hard Italian cheese, garlic, oil, and lemon juice and zest. 

Truth be told, the pesto was a bit overpowering for the mildly smoked fish, but it was tasty. The corn, this early in the season, lacked true corn flavor but we can't resist the essence of summer.