Showing posts with label Chinese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chinese. Show all posts

2023-10-09

Salsa Crujiente de Chile: Spanish "chili crisp" sauce

We made a variation of Laoganma’s Chinese Chili Crisp sauce in Arlington, guided by Serious Eats (watch the video): it was excellent -- intense, rich, crunchy, very fiery, and had the "Málà" numbing affect from the Szechuan chilis. Now that we're living in Barcelona, I wanted to make a variation using local flavors: tasty chilis that aren't so hot, garlic (of course!), pimenton, olive oil, etc. I'm taking inspiration from that recipe, plus The Kitchn's (which references Chinese ingredients by proper names), and this Guide to Herbs and Spices in Spain. 

This turned out well: plenty of crunch, rich flavors, and mild enough you can put it on anything; I could just pile it onto plain rice or couscous and eat it for dinner. 

The chilis, olive oil, and almonds here are obvious Spanish substitutions; the ginger and fennel are more in line with the original, and should be amicable flavors. I have no intention to be authentic, only zesty and crunchy! 

Served on fried egg on top of boniato (sweet potato)

After deseeding and grinding the chilis, it's easier to measure the other mostly-dry ingredients directly into the bowl, rather than using a dozen mis-en-place dishes. A mandolin will speed slicing the Shallots, Fennel, and Garlic thinly and consistently. After slicing the Shallots and starting them frying, you can prep the Fennel, then Garlic while the previous one fries.

Makes about 500 ml

 25 g      Chili Choriceros
 25 g      Chili Ñora/Nyora
0.5 g      Chili Cayenne (Pimienta Cayena, 30-50K Scoville)[5 small]

 25 g      Almonds, sliced (use good quality)
 15 g      Ginger, fresh, sliced into thin match sticks
  1 g      Anise seed
  6 g      Dried mushroom powder (grind dried mushrooms into powder)
 10 g      Sugar
 15 g      Coarse Salt
  1 g      Black Pepper
 12 g      Pimenton
  8 g      White Sesame Seeds
  1 g      Rosemary, minced
  1 whole  Orange Zest, chopped fine or coarse grate
1/2 stick  Cinnamon, whole [1 g]
  1 whole  Bay Leaf, whole

300 g      Olive Oil (doesn't need to be extra virgin)
100 g      Shallots, sliced 1mm thick
100 g      Fennel, sliced 1 mm thick
 50 g      Garlic, sliced 1 mm thick [8 clove]

Mise en place isn't necessary

Deseed the Chilis by slitting and shaking out seeds (gloves are a good idea here); discard the seeds.
Grind the chilis in a spice grinder (in batches) until about 2-4 mm chili-flake sized, not a powder.
Place in heatproof bowl large enough to accommodate boiling oil, at least 2 Liter.
Add the other (mostly dry) spices and herbs: Almonds, Ginger, Anise Seeds, Mushroom Powder, Sugar, Salt, Black Pepper, Pimenton, Sesame Seeds, Rosemary, Orange Zest, Cinnamon, and Bay Leaves.

De-seeded chilis, herbs, spices wait for hot oil


Now for the crunchy bits!
Make sure the Shallots, Fennel, and Garlic are fried until fully crisp to remove all water; they should crisp up once they are removed from the oil for a minute.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a 1 L heatproof bowl.
Add Olive Oil to a 2 L saucepan.
Add Shallots and cook over high heat until they are light golden brown, about 15 minutes; strain and retain; return oil to pot.
Add Fennel and repeat the process; it may take a bit longer to remove the water from the Fennel.
Add Garlic, cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until barely golden brown; strain, retain, return oil to pot. 
Reserve the crunchy fried Shallots, Fennel, and Garlic.


Heat the flavored Oil to 190C (375F).
Pour into the large heat-proof bowl containing the Chilis, spices, herbs and other seasonings; it will bubble up ferociously!
Stir well so the hot oil cooks everything evenly. 
If you think everything isn't quite browned enough, you can put it back on the fire (a metal bowl can go directly on an induction burner) but be careful not to burn things. 

Let cool about 30 minutes.
Remove the Cinnamon stick and Bay Leaf. 
Mix in fried Shallots, Fennel, and Garlic.
Pour into jars and store in fridge; it should last at least 3 months.

Served on plain white rice, makes for a zesty side dish

2024-08-26 Tweaks

I've tweaked this over time, removing duplicative lemon, etc.
Today I've doubled the Rosemary to 2 grams, bumped the Almonds from 25 to 30 g, and added 75 g of Leek (sliced by hand, they were too soft for the mandolin). I had to bump up the Oil from 300 to 350g.

2020-03-25

Stir-fried String Beans, Snap Peas, or Asparagus

This is quick and easy, with straight-ahead flavors; it's also good with String Beans, Snap Peas (shown here) or Asparagus, but may take a bit longer to cook. From Greg Lee, 1988.

Served on white rice


1/8 Cup Oil
1/4 tsp Salt
2 clove Garlic, minced
1 pound String Beans, Snap Peas, or Asparagus (cut up)
to taste Chili flakes
2 Tb Sherry

1/2 Tbs cornstarch
1 tsp Sugar
2 Tbs Soy sauce
1/2 Cup Chicken Stock (Water or white Wine if desperate)

Heat pan, add Oil and Salt.
Lower heat, add Garlic, fry until light brown.
Add Beans and pepper, turn heat to high.
Stir-fry until beans change to deeper green; don't cook much, they need to retain their shape when done.

Cook fast and hot, I like a little scorching

Add Sherry.
Cook covered 2-3 minutes until barely crunchy-tender.

Meanwhile, combine the Cornstarch, Sugar, Soy, Stock.

When Beans are done, remove cover; add cornstarch mixture.

The sauce finishes cooking the veggies, and cornstarch thickens it

Stir until thickened.
Serve with rice.

1982-10-01

Hot and Sour Soup

Our college friends, Jerry and Cindi, taught this to us in 1982.


2 large Dried Black Mushrooms
6 Tree Ear Mushrooms
4 Dried Tiger Lilly Stems
1 Tbs Vegetable Oil
1/2 Cup Pork, finely shredded (about 1/4 pound)
1 Tbs Light Soy Sauce
? ? Bok Choy, sliced
1/2 Cup Shredded Bamboo Shoots
5 Cup Chicken Broth
2-3 Tbs Red Wine Vinegar
1 Tbs Dark Soy Sauce
2 Tbs Cornstarch
3 Tbs Water
1 1/2 pad Tofu, firm
2 whole Eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp Sesame Oil
1-2 tsp White Pepper
2 tsp Scallions with green part
Fresh Coriander, chopped for garnish
2 Tbs Hot Bean Paste (to taste)

Soak Mushrooms, Tree Ears, Tiger Lilly Stems in hot or boiling water and let stand 15-30 minutes to rehydrate; drain.


Discard stems of Mushrooms and hard part of Tree Ears, cut into thin slices


Stir Pork in hot Oil and add Light Soy Sauce along with Mushrooms, Tree Ears, Tiger Lilly Stems, Bamboo Shoots.

Add Bok Choy.

Stir 1 minute and add Chicken Broth and Salt.

Stir in Vinegar and Dark Soy. 

Add Scallions.


Mix Cornstarch and Water then stir into soup to thicken.

When thickened, add Tofu.

Bring to boil and turn off heat


Add Sesame Oil, Pepper, Bean Paste and stir.

While stirring, add beaten Eggs.

Sprinkle with Coriander.