Showing posts with label Portuguese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Portuguese. Show all posts

2024-07-21

Allioli Rapidísimo: quick and pungent -- using milk!

While I was researching recipes for sepia croquetas I came across a TV video which included a "allioli rapidísimo". Interestingly, it used milk as a base, which is something I've never heard of, and I've been working on various Spanish alliolis like toum for a while. As the name implies, it takes just a few minutes to make using a stick blender. It has a fiery burn from the raw garlic which mellows after a night in the fridge.


The chef said you can use whatever oil you like as the base, including a neutral one like sunflower oil, but we found this was too mild and created a sauce that was blindingly white, so we'll use a plain olive oil, then finish with extra virgin for flavor. The chef also added a bit of parsley at the end, but I think that distracts from the appearance.

A search shows that this is a Portuguese (perhaps Brazilian) called "maionese de leite", and that author shows that it's amenable to a variety of flavors including tomato or anchovy which sounds interesting.

  1 clove  Garlic, whole, peeled
 60 ml     Milk
120 ml     Olive Oil (perhaps not Extra Virgin)
as needed  Extra Virgin Olive Oil
           Parsley (optional)
to taste   Sherry Vinegar
to taste   Salt

Put the clove of Garlic in the cup of a stick blender, add the Milk and the first Olive Oil.
Whiz with the stick blender -- without moving the blender -- until the Milk and Oil merge almost completely.
Slowly drizzle in the Extra Virgin Olive Oil while blending, raising and dropping the stick blender to incorporate; it should start to thicken and fluff up. 
Add as much EVOO as you like to get the texture you want, I probably added 60 ml or so, not as much as I expected.
Add a bit of Parsley if you like and whiz briefly.
Add Sherry Vinegar and Salt, whiz a little, taste, and adjust. 




2024-05-03

Bacalhau com Natas: Portuguese salt cod with cream sauce

Friends of ours mentioned enjoying this while traveling in Portugal and it sounded like fun since I enjoy Bacalao. It turned out well: very rich, creamy, with soft potatoes -- a fine dish for cooler weather. 

Crusty gratin with creamy bacalao and potatoes

This recipe is based on several I found: Crumb-Snatched, We Travel Portugal, Authentic Food Quest, and Portuguese Soul Kitchen. Most boil the fish in water but AFQ's cooks it in milk which makes more sense: it flavors the milk rather than diluting the fish. All the recipes call for Mozzarella for the gratin, but that seems too pizza-like so I used Parmesan and another cheese which I had on hand; you could use only Parmesan.

I'm using frozen Bacalao/Bacallà al punt de sal for convenience, and because it's less expensive than the dry salt cod I reserve for dishes like Pil Pil. If you use dry Bacalao, you'll need to hydrate for 2-3 days in several changes of water. Some recipes suggest using store bought shoestring fries instead of frying potatoes yourself, which I think is clever, but I'm not stooping to that yet. 

This serves 2 generously.

300 g      Bacalao al punt de sal, thawed
200 g      Milk
  1        Bay Leaf

 45 ml     Olive Oil
  1 large  Onion, yellow or white, peeled, sliced
  2 clove  Garlic, sliced
300 g      Potato, peeled, cut into 1 cm cubes

 20 g      Butter
 20 g      Flour
100 ml     Cream
           Nutmeg, grated
           Salt
           Pepper

 25 g      Cheese, Pecorino Romano, grated
 25 g      Cheese, Parmesan, grate
  5 sprigs Parsley, chopped 

If using dried Bacalao, hydrate it 2-3 days in multiple changes of water.

To save time, cook the Bacalao at the same time as you sauté the Onions, then make the bechamel while frying the Potatoes.

In a pot, simmer the Bacalao in the Milk with the Bay, covered on low for 10 minutes.
Drain, reserving the Milk.
Discard any skin, bones, and the Bay.
Flake the fish with fork or fingers.

Onions and garlic on left, bacalao and milk on right

In a skillet, sauté Onion and Garlic in 15 ml Oil until tender.
Add cooked Bacalao and fry 5 minutes; reserve to a cazuela or baking dish.
Coat the bottom of the same skillet with 30 ml Oil and fry the Potatoes until golden and barely cooked through; cover the skillet after developing the crust to speed the cooking.

In the same pot as you cooked the Bacalao, melt Butter and add Flour, whisk to create a paste and cook the Flour for a few minutes.
Slowly add the fishy Milk and cook, whisking continuously until you get a sauce a little thicker than heavy cream
Add the Cream and Nutmeg, then adjust with Salt and Pepper. 
Remove from heat.



Preheat the oven to 200C.
Layer the Potatoes on the Onions/Bacalao in the cazuela and shake to distribute evenly.
Top with the bechamel, and even out again.
Top with grated Cheese.


Bake at 200C for 20 minutes until cheese is melted and browned.
Garnish with Parsley.
Serve with a dry white wine.


2026-01-11 Where's the fish?

I made this with Bacalao al punt de sal but the fish seemed to get lost. I think I simmered it too high in the milk, so it fell apart. Next time use a bare simmer, perhaps a little 5 minutes instead of 10, since it's sautéed later. I cooked the Onion, then the Bacalao and Potatoes, in a carbon steel pan and the fish stuck a bit, shredding it further; consider using a pan that's fully non-stick. 

Irene said it was too rich, that the Cream muted the flavor. Reduce it, or omit it, from the Bechamel. We could probably back out the Cheese for the gratin just a bit.

2017-01-17

Linguiça for Caldo Verde

I got kale at the farmer's market to make the Portuguese soup Caldo Verde, which requires Linguiça sausage. Irene used this recipe to make the linguiça, cut in half.

After smoking

  • 5 pounds (2.25kg) pork butt, untrimmed
  • 10 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 tablespoons (55g) paprika
  • 1 tablespoon (15g) salt
  • 1 tablespoon (15g) ground coriander seeds
  • 1 teaspoon (5g) ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon (5g) allspice
  • 1 teaspoon (5g) black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons (10g) cayenne pepper (optional)
  • ¼ cup (60ml)white wine vinegar
  • ½ cup (120ml) cold water
Grind the meat, whiz garlic, coriander, cinnamon, and allspice together, add to meat with remaining ingredients, mixing well.
Stuff into pork casings, rest in fridge overnight.
Cold smoke for 4 hours.

We made Caldo Verde, loosely following the technique from Serious Eats, with a Spanish onion, and using good Spanish olive oil instead of butter. Irene thought the dish was a little bit too sweet (next time use a yellow onion) and could benefit from a splash of vinegary hot sauce.
The finished Caldo Verde