Paella: In Search of Socarrat

Socarrat is the crunchy rice at the bottom of a well-made paella. While we've been happy with our paellas, we've never gotten the socarrat. Here we attempt to create that elusive texture.

Paella with snails, peas and yellow bell peppers; note crust around edges

This technique comes from the 2018 book Catalan Food: Culture and Flavors from the Mediterranean by Daniel Olivella. The main difference from what I normally do is that he adds the stock in three additions, around the edge, and watches for the crusty bits forming there to indicate the development of the socarrat; he also uses a bit more stock. We're doing this indoors rather than our usually BBQ technique so we can concentrate on that crunchy bit. I'm changing the sequencing a little from Daniel's recipe, since I think the saffron gets lost if added too early.

The flavors are up to you: you can use fish stock with shrimps and fin fish, or chicken stock with snails and rabbit, etc. You can top with red peppers or peas.  Just make sure the proteins and vegetables are cooked enough: brown things like chicken or sausage first, top with bell peppers in the middle, and add delicate shrimp near the end so they don't overcook.

This recipe, for a 10-inch diameter paella pan, serves two generously as a main course, or four as an appetizer.

5 C Stock
2 pinches Saffron, crumbled (about 1/4 tsp)

1 ounce Onion
1 ounce Green Pepper, preferably long, sweet and mild (not hot); Bell will work
2 cloves Garlic
1 ounce Tomato, grated
6 Tbs Parsley Leaves, fresh, minced

1 Tbs Kosher Salt

3 Tbs Olive Oil

4 ounces Squid, Chicken, Rabbit, Pork, Sausage or other firm protein which needs cooking
1 C Bomba Rice (this is important, but Arborio risotto rice works in a pinch)
1/2 tsp Pimenton (smoked Paprika)
1/4 tsp Black Pepper
4 ounces Shrimp, Fish, Clams, Mussels, or canned Snails which need minimal cooking
1/4 C Frozen Peas
1/2 Red Bell Pepper, sliced into 8 strips
4 wedges Lemon

Warm the Stock and add the crushed Saffron to flavor it.

In a 10-11 inch diameter Paella Pan, saute the sofregit ingredients: Onion, Pepper, Garlic, Tomato, Parsley and Salt in Olive Oil until soft. Remove and reserve for a moment.

Saute any firm proteins in a bit more Olive Oil until mostly cooked, a couple minutes.

Add the Bomba Rice, and with high heat, stir until rice is shiny with oil. Add Pimenton, Black Pepper and the reserved Sofregit.

Add about 3 C of the Stock with Saffron around the edge of the paella pan, shake the pan to settle the rice as the stock begins to boil. Do not shake or stir later or the rice will become sticky and may prevent the formation of the socarrat.

First addition of stock

Turn heat to medium and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed; it should take about 10 minutes, and if it takes longer, crank up the heat. The rice should just begin to sizzle a bit "almost as if it is asking you for another drink". This indicates the socarrat is beginning to form. Add 1 C more Stock around the edges again so it seeps from edge to center.

Arrange delicate proteins like Shrimp, Shellfish or Snails around the edge, burying slightly in the rice. Simmer until the liquid is mostly absorbed and the rice starts to sizzle again, about 5 more minutes (adjust heat if needed).

Snails, peas and peppers added

Drizzle the final 1 C Stock around the edge. Scatter the peas and arrange the Pepper strips in spokes on top of the rice. Simmer until rice is just beginning to become tender, about 5 minutes more. Shrimp should be pink, peas warmed through, any clams or mussels should be open. Test the rice: it should be plump and tender but with a slightly firm center.

The edge of the paella pan should now have a dark rim of oily starch, indicating a crispy socarrat has forming below. To test, use a spoon to scrape the bottom of the pan: it shouldn't slide but push against rice crust which is starting to form. When the socarrat has begun, rotate the pan for even browning.

"The rice will talk to you as it cooks; the crackle will get faster as the rice dries out, then it will go silent when the socarrat is finished forming. Your nose will tell you if it's beginning to burn; just add a spoonful of stock to the scorching spot if so."

Serve the paella in its pan at the center of the table with spoons for guests to serve themselves, with lemon wedges.