Jurassic Chicken with Mushrooms and Cream

This is a hearty cool weather dish from Jura France, with an intriguing fragrance from the mushrooms -- and if you can afford it, the nutty vin jaune. We typically use a tough old bird because it has more flavor than a young hen. Based on Art of Eating #72, November 2006.

Garnished with chicken skin cracklings, served over dumplings

I couldn't justify the cost of wines from Jura to cook with -- it's pricey in the States but not too bad in France; a friend once brought to drink: it's an unusual earthy wine with a distinct "rancio" aroma reminiscent of rancid walnuts.  I substituted for the requested Jura sous-voile and vin jaune wines with an unoaked, slightly buttery Chardonnay, and added a bit of sherry at the end to give the suggestion of nuttiness. Morel mushrooms are traditional, but porcini work too; don't use shitake as their flavor is too distinct. Even these dried mushrooms are about $20 for 100 grams, so here we use a mix of dried porcini and fresh cremini mushrooms.

The crisp skin condiment is my own twist on this as I don't enjoy soggy skin.  Although it's not traditional, we have served this with Spätzle which worked very well.

42 gram Dried Morel or Porcini Mushrooms
500 gram   Cremini mushrooms, fresh, sliced
1 whole Chicken (we've used an old 5# gallina)
Salt
Pepper
1-2 Tbs Flour, just enough to dust
2 ounce Butter
1 cup White Wine (e.g., unoaked, slightly buttery Chardonnay)
2 cup Chicken Stock (or mushroom hydration water)
1/4 cup Vin Jaune Wine (I used the same Chardonnay)
2 cups Heavy Cream
1 splash Lemon Juice
3 Tbs Sherry
Parsley, finely diced for condiment

Re-hydrate the Dried Mushrooms in cool water for 30 minutes.
Cut up the chicken into 8 pieces: drumsticks, thighs, breasts, wings;  remove and reserve skin.
Season with Salt, Pepper, and dust lightly with Flour.
Saute Chicken pieces in Butter in a wide pan so they lie in one layer, cooking until the flour is cooked; do not brown.

Slowly saute lightly floured pieces until barely cooked

Add 1 C Wine and Chicken Stock, cover and cook slowly so the chicken doesn't color, turning as needed.
The breasts should be done in about 15 minutes or less, remove; the others parts should take another 15 minutes or so, remove.
An giant old Gallina will take a lot longer, perhaps an hour.
Skim excessive fat if you have any.
Reduce until it's nearly a glaze.

Meanwhile...

Crisp the reserved skin from the Chicken by placing flat in a non-stick skillet, top with a pot lid or other object to keep it flat, and cook on low, turning over occasionally. It should eventually come out like crispy thin-cut bacon. Cut into shards.

Chicken skin cracklings are sooooo good

Remove the Chicken Meat from the bones and shred into bite-sized pieces.

Saute the Cremini mushrooms in some Chicken fat from above.
Slice the rehydrated Mushrooms, cutting out any woody stems, and add them to the saute.

Add 1/4 C vin jaune or other Wine, Cream, Mushrooms, and reduced Chicken liquid.
Cook and reduce until it just coats a spoon.
If you need to add moisture, strain some Mushroom liquid.

Reducing the cream with the mushrooms

Add the chicken meat and heat through.
Just before serving add the Sherry and mix through.
Add a splash of Lemon Juice if it taste a bit flat, just a touch.
Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve with dumplings or over Spätzle, garnish with Parsley and Chicken Skin cracklings.

Dumplings cook covered on top of the finished dish